Sewing a Future
“For a dollar they think they own you.”
Mayme

It is interesting isn’t it how different productions of the same play can be? I saw Lynne Nottage’s Intimate Apparel in 2014 at the Park Theatre in Finsbury Park and looked forward to seeing it again. What I remembered most was the sadly impossible relationship between an African American seamstress Esther and an orthodox Jewish draper Mr Marks. Curiously I found the emphasis very different in Lynette Linton’s current production for the Donmar Warehouse.
The setting is New York in 1905 where 35 year old Esther (Samira Wiley) has a useful trade, making elaborate bodice/basques for the very rich and for the other tenants of the boarding house where she lives. There are three African American women in this play, Esther, Mrs Dickson (Nicola Hughes) the use of her surname showing her status, who is the landlady of the boarding house and a prostitute called Mayme (Faith Omole) who also lives there. A customer, a white woman Mrs Van Buren (Claudia Jolly) orders these wonderful corsets but has an unhappy marriage to a rich man.
Esther has worked hard over the years and is saving up to start a beauty parlour. At 35 she has pretty much given up any idea of marrying. A letter is sent to her through a mutual acquaintance from George Armstrong, a labourer from Barbados who is working on the construction of the Panama Canal. Now Esther cannot read or write but she tells Mrs Van Buren about the letter who reads it for her and who will help Esther reply.

The letters between George and Esther are charming and visually staged with cursive writing lit up scrolling across the darkened stage, walls and floor. The simple staging immerses Esther in her fantasy world of letter writing. The actor playing George dictates the letters from a balcony like a gantry with building tools and equipment differencing it from the sewing room below. Mrs Van Buren with no romance left in her marriage, enjoys the involvement in the correspondence.
It is these letters which make this production different from the one I saw in 2014 with an emphasis on George and Esther. Mr Marks acquires a beautiful bolt of embroidered, Japanese silk which he gives to Esther for her to construct a garment. Esther designs a beautiful smoking jacket with velvet cuffs and reveres as a wedding present. I am not going to spoil the play by telling you the fate of the smoking jacket here.
The acting performances are very fine. Samira Wiley who was so memorable in Blues for an Alabama Sky is deeply affecting but the ensemble are also strong. The inspiration for this play is Lynne Nottage’s grandmother’s unrecorded life in New York as a seamstress and Intimate Apparel is truly inspirational.

Production Notes
Intimate Apparel
Written by Lynn Nottage
Directed by Lynette Linton
Cast
Starring:
Claudia Jolly
Faith Omole
Kadiff Kirwan
Nicola Hughes
Samira Wiley
Alex Waldmann
Creatives
Director: Lynette Linton
Designer: Alex Berry
Movement Director: Shelley Maxwell
Lighting Designer: Jai Morjaria
Sound Designer: George Dennis
Composer: .Xana
Video/Projection Designer: Gino Ricardo Green
Information
Running Time: Two hours 25 minutes with an interval
Booking to 9th August 2025
Theatre:
Donmar Warehouse
Earlham Street
Covent Garden
London WC2H 9LX
Tube : Covent Garden
Website: donmarwarehouse.com
Reviewed by Lizzie Loveridge
at the Donmar Warehouse
on 27th June 2025